Christmas in Italy is a very different experience from that in the UK, in that it remains significantly less commercial in nature. Here the shops and town centres have been decoration-free up until the first week of December, and even then, any public decorations are positively discrete when compared to the pomp and circumstance the season is awarded back home.

In my particular little Ligurian village, a large tree has been given pride of place in the centre of the piazza, but as yet has received no decorative baubles other than a few boxes wrapped to look like presents that the local children have hung from its lower branches. Other signs that “Natale” is approaching are to be found on the supermarket shelves, where in the last few weeks local establishments have begun stocking hordes more chocolates, with anything made by Lindt or Ferrero Rocher taking serious precedence. No Cadbury’s to be seen here!

Of course, the other delight to hit our shelves is the world-renowned and frankly delicious panettone - a usually cupola shaped sweet bread loaf that originated in Milan and that traditionally contains a sprinkling of dried fruits – candied orange and lemon, and raisins.The other versions to be had - namely original but with a crunchy sugar coating, plain with no fruit or a chocolate-based loaf – are all definitely worth a taste.

Like many countries, Italian towns and cities often have Christmas markets (mercatini di natale) to be perused in the run-up to the festive season. One can find some gifts there, but the markets are definitely more about seasonal food, drink, decorations and in particular, the figurines for the many nativity scenes (presepe or presepio) that spring up all over the place. These can simply be little depictions of the stable scene tucked into snug cubby holes, whereas others can be vast affairs showing what must be the entire town of Bethlehem complete with suburbs. Often, at the touch of a button the entire metropolis springs to life with lowing cattle, wool-spinning women, whirling water wheels, smoking chimneys, and the holy offspring glowing with promise in his manger. 

Christmas markets are often also in close proximity to temporary outdoor ice-rinks and winter scenes heaving under drifts of fake but atmospheric snow. On Christmas Eve (la vigilia di Natale) Italian tradition dictates that the family should gather together for a fish-based meal, followed by midnight mass in the local place of worship. In some parts of Italy it is this meal that is considered the main Christmas repast, but in other parts it is the 25th that should be entered into almost in a state of fast in preparation for a large meal either at midday, or starting at about 5pm and continuing into the night.

The opening of Christmas presents in Italy usually takes place on the morning of the 25th, the gifts having been delivered by Babbo Natale (Father Christmas) the night before by the usual means. Italian children have an extra treat to look forward to on 6th January. La Befana – probably a corruption of the word Epifania (Epiphany) – also known as La Pefana, is a rather mischievous witch who brings the children yet more presents and leaves them in a stocking. Children that have not behaved during the year are traditionally left a piece of coal instead, although this is made out of crunchy black sugar as opposed to a crunchy black fossil fuel. So what is it to be, Christmas or Natale? May the most festive, win!

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